I’ve been told more than once about a time when certain countries—particularly from Eastern Europe—were great places for cheap vacations. Cities like Prague and Budapest which, reopened after Communism, had everything you want from Europe at a fraction of the cost. When postcards did not exist and a good meal cost a pack of cigarettes. A time when I could expect this kind of treatment.
I’m exaggerating, of course. The point is simply that these cities weren’t the premium destinations they are now.
Is there any corner of Europe left under the radar? If I may volunteer a guess, Pilsen is one such place.
If the only thing you know about Pilsen is that it’s the home of Pilsner Urquell beer, I’m with you. Admittedly, I had no better reason to stop there for one night on my way to Prague. I usually enjoy tours of beer factories, especially when they conclude with a generous tasting session. And this way, I could drink but describe it as learning beer ”history” and ”chemistry”.
As expected, the beer satisfied. Pilsen beyond the factory, though, contained surprises. Entering the city center, I found the streets curiously unoccupied. Despite it being a pleasant Thursday evening, no people were out to enjoy it. We walked by quiet cafes and an eerily empty main square, save for a few disheveled men laid out on benches. In truth, there was nothing patently wrong with this scene. But having arrived from multiple cities overrun by vacationing hordes, seeing deserted streets was unexpected to say the least.
Then it dawned on me that this is what popular cities like Salzburg and Budapest might have looked like without tourists. Pilsen–as I saw it–might be the Prague of 20 years ago. The weight of outsider presence is really felt by small nations like the Czech Republic (about 10 million people). I also hear their birthrate is tiny, so the future of their city life may well depend on people from abroad.
Then again, the silver lining of fewer tourists is–in my opinion–a more authentic travel experience. A thorough stroll through town the next day brought the long-awaited satisfaction of being inside a truly local atmosphere. Only Czechs going about their daily routine. Nothing to disturb the appearance that this is how life has gone about for years and years.
The city officials have different ideas in mind, though. Pilsen is bidding to be the European Culture Capital in 2015, and with that comes changes. Namely, changes that will make Pilsen prettier and more noticeable to foreigners. How lovely that will be.
On the other hand, that also means more vendors looking to rip me off. More tourists riding Segways. More people covered in gold paint, standing on boxes and pretending to be robots.
That just means the time to see Pilsen is now. Ten years from now, you can be the one telling someone about the time you saw a nice place before anyone else did.
Local tip: drink lots of beer.
